PHAN GAN GUIDE

No doubt about it, Thailand is one of the coolest places on the planet. It’s so cheap and chilled you could spend months here just relaxing, living off a tenner a day, and have an experience of a life time.

Northern Thailand is especially popular with backpackers; it’s not full of saddo package tourists like Phuket is, nor manic like Bangkok and the whole town is geared up for budget, free-spirited travellers. The old town is full of amazing guesthouses tucked away down quiet lanes, and you can almost feel like they’re home. There are some groovy bars and wicked places to party, plus loads of brilliant little restaurants all over the place serving veggie and organic food, or spicy Thai curries and noodles for less than a buck a meal.

Chiang Mai is full of backpackers and has a really laid back atmosphere; everyone here is down to earth and friendly, which is why many stay longer than planned. It’s one of the cheapest tourist places in Thailand and you’re spoilt for choice. Hire yourself a small motorbike and explore the fantastic natural areas that are so close to the city, such as Doi Suithep mountain, the beautiful Mae Sa valley and the small villages near the town. There are plenty of adrenalin pumping activities too, from white-water rafting to rock climbing, bungy jumping and mountain biking.

Many use Chiang Mai as a perfect base to go trekking, for sure this is one the main reasons people come up North and there are plenty of companies about town offering all sorts of options to head into the amazing mountains for a few days and stay in hill tribe villages, ride elephants and skiff down pristine rivers.

You absolutely can’t come north without visiting Pai. This sleepy little town, three hours north over the mountain ranges is hardly a secret anymore, but a top place to chill and hang out with plenty of other free-spirits. Set in gorgeous rural surroundings beside a pretty little river, this small town has a brilliant bohemian atmosphere, and is a budget place that guarantees that the mass of tourists stay away. People stay for weeks; there are yoga and new age pursuits, healthy food, live music in the bars, cheap beer and lots of friendly relaxed people.

The city of Nophaburi Sri Nakorn Ping Chiangmai was auspiciously founded by King Mengrai in the early hours of April 12 1296. Chiangmai was intended to be the great new capital of the thriving Lanna Kingdom and indeed it was to become one of the most important cities in the region.

The moat and corner bastions make Chiangmai unique
The square laid out was 1800m by 2000m, and in time a moat would be added to mark out the boundaries of Chiangmai and safeguard the people within. At each corner a bastion, each with cosmological significance, was built, while the four main gates located on each of the flanks faced towards the four points of the compass. Today these landmarks remain to form an overwhelmingly unique character of Chiangmai for which this historical city is famed for.

In those early days of Chiangmai the Ping river, to the east of the original settlement, was the primary focus of the valley and brought traders from China and beyond as well as providing water for the agriculture that has long been a mainstay of the local economy. Today visitors to Chiangmai come from all over the world, not as traders but tourists who admire the incredible history, relax among the beautiful nature and enjoy the famous Thai hospitality.

Over the centuries the Lanna kingdom grew in strength and Chiangmai became a wealthy centre. The many beautiful temples and chedis that still stand today are a legacy of Chiangmai’s distinguished past, and a distinctive culture developed independently of the great kingdoms of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya that were to arise after the heyday of the Lanna kingdom.

Tapae Square on a sunny Sunday afternoon
Though Chiangmai may have been overrun by the Burmese and almost deserted at one time, the Lanna culture survived intact, passing down ancient traditions and skills. Modern Chiangmai relies heavily on its past, and a thriving handicraft industry based on timeless skills and methods has turned it into one of Thailand’s shopping magnets.

Welcoming visitors is an art perfected in Chiangmai, and recent decades have seen the city emerge as one of Asia’s most popular and best value destinations. People come to experience the beautiful mountainous scenery of Northern Thailand, go trekking, eat, drink, party, delve into history and seek out adventure. The quiet winding lanes of the old town, the rustic old wooden guest houses, lively riverside restaurants, colourful hill tribe folk and bustling night bazaar all contribute to make Chiangmai an unforgettable destination.

Bargaining is a part of market life for most Thais, so, before you stock up on all those souvenirs and handicraft goodies, you need a little practice. Consider this conversation…

You: “Sawadee krap/ka, nee tao rai na krap/ka?” (Hello, how much is this?). Your opening gambit should always be in Thai, this way they take you for a local ex-pat and assume you are less gullible; their opening gambit will almost certainly be more realistic. So, learn this phrase by heart (remember guys say ‘krap’ and girls say ‘ka’).

Them: Two hundred baht.

You: Two hundred baht, you’re kidding, is this one from Bangkok? In Bangkok, I pay two hundred baht for much better quality. Maybe you drive all way to Bangkok buy this one, you get bad price, yes? (Thais love a bit of humour).

Them: (laughing) This one good quality sure, I buy from factory one hundred and fifty baht. Not buy Bangkok, Bangkok more expensive, maybe three hundred baht.

You: Three hundred baht? Where? Maybe you buy three hundred in Phuket, tourist in Phuket have too much money, Chiang Mai very cheap, I ask lady over there how much, she say one hundred baht. Maybe this one made with gold for two hundred baht sure!

Them: (laughing) Yes made gold sure, two hundred good price sure. You want? How many you buy, can make good price for you.

You: I buy already in Bangkok, I get good price, only fifty baht sure!

Them: (laughing in disbelief) Ah, cannot, fifty baht not enough, buy from factory more than one hundred baht.

You: Okay, I go factory tomorrow. Less than one hundred baht for sure. Here velly expensive. I like to buy from you, you very beautiful/handsome/friendly/whatever (Thais love flattery).

Them: Okay, one hundred fifty baht, special for you. You take five I give for six hundred baht all.

You: How about twenty, what price, nine hundred baht?

Them: (laughing) Aaeeeii, no can do. Five, six hundred baht. Buy for wife, children, all. You have wife/husband? (You get this question often).

You: Have wife many, too many, give headache, must buy for all but not enough money (Again, Thais love humour, it softens them up.)

Them: (laughing) Many wife! You butterfly. Okay, I give you five hundred baht, five, special price for you.

You: Thank you, only need three, how much three, three hundred baht?

Them: Ah, cannot, three hundred too little. Please mister/miss, must feed baby (a popular imaginary accessory), work here every night, now foreigner few, no business (reverse psychology, softening you up).

You: Okay, this shop I buy many thing, shirt, book, souvenir, all together, then you give good price okay.

Them: I have many thing, you like this velly cheap… (this is where they try offloading their whole stall on you, suddenly getting wildly optimistic and excited).

You: (deliver coup de grace, suddenly change your mind, say no thanks and abruptly walk away slowly)

Them: (come running after you with original product) Okay, mister/miss, I give you eighty baht, best price, please, nowhere cheaper.

You: Eighty baht? Seventy.

Them: (no longer laughing, looking at you with killer emotional blackmail expression). Eighty.

You: Okay, eighty baht, I take three.

(At this point you become altruistic and use your leverage to tip them nicely, give him/her ninety or a hundred baht for each one, they appreciate the gesture, all smiles, everyone happy.)

*She probably bought it for fifty baht, but these people make very little, be kind, a hundred baht is no more than a couple of bucks.

The Thai are a proud nation of people with a long history and well-established, complex hierarchal structure of status. Starting with the Royal family and percolating down, everyone in Thailand knows and respects their place in society. A polite Thai (which is most of them) will usually immediately identify whether another is of higher status than them (usually deemed by age or wealth) and initiate the ‘wai’ - a submissive and graceful bringing together of the hands to the chest or beneath the nose (to show ultimate respect). Even on a social level they will refer to their elders as ‘pii’ (older sibling). In fact social grace is paramount and the formal suffix ‘kha’ (female) and ‘khrup’ (male) is added to the end of all sentences when addressing strangers, employers/employees or elders.

There are many other habits of etiquette which the foreigner will do well to observe, the most important being to avoid loss of face by losing your temper. The feet are considered dirty and should not be pointed directly at people or raised; shoes are usually never worn in indoor living areas and the head is sanctified, so avoid touching someone else on the head, unless they are an intimate friend. Contrary to popular impression, Thais are quite conservative and expect visitors to dress appropriately in formal public places. They are also discreet about showing affection, especially in public. Holding hands is considered taboo among the older generation.

While Westerners tend to pick up subtleness in tone of voice to indicate someone’s mood, Thais read more into your body language and approach. Emphasis is usually placed on passiveness and although they are used to foreigners being abrupt, it pays to smile constantly and go gently. Eye contact is a common and important method of placing strangers at ease and there is good reason why Thailand is known as ‘the land of smiles’. The Thai are incredibly patient and forgiving in an imperfect society and are happy to accept things as they are. The best you can do as a foreigner is to offer a soft laugh in testing situations, and say ‘mai pen rai’ (never mind) - a frequently used excuse.

For most Thai people, even in the modern era, acting appropriately to maintain or improve your status is extremely important and this goes some way towards explaining their desire for material gain and wealth. Above all, they adore their King and greatly respect the Royal family; indeed his Highness King Bhumibol (Rama IX) of the current Chakri dynasty (and the world’s longest reigning monarch still alive) is hugely respected for his compassionate servitude to the entire nation, along with Queen Sirikit.

Thai cultural behaviour is far reaching and subtle, and often creates some frustration for foreigners who are unaware of the cultural habits that may influence everyday business and service. For an in-depth, albeit slightly dated, insight we recommend Robert and Nanthapa Cooper’s Culture Shock: Thailand (Times ISBN:981 204 157 5).

Academic Institutes in Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai University Huey Kaew Rd. Tel. 221 699
Chiang Mai Dramatic Art College Suriwong Rd. Tel. 282 196
Maejo University Chiang Mai-Prao Rd. Tel. 498 858
Payap University Superhighway Chiang Mai-Lampang Tel. 241 255

Chiang Mai popularity stems in part from its pleasant climate. Temperatures from mid-November to January average between 13C and 28C (56F and 83F) in Chiang Mai; the hills are even colder.

Temperatures in Chiang Mai begin rising in February and in the hot season (March-May) range between 17C and 36C (63F and 97F). In the rainy season (June-mid November), the highs can drop but the lows not at all.

There is no considerable variation between day and night-times temperatures in Chiang Mai.

The monsoon in Chiang Mai begins in May and ends in October, earlier than in Central Thailand.

The rain generally falls sporadically - except during August and September when the streets of Chiang Mai can sometimes flood.